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Polar Nights in Svalbard – Eternal Darkness and Amazing Serenity

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02 – 06 Jan 2011

Longyearbyen, the main permanent settlement on Svalbard, is located 78° North making it one of the Northernmost settlements on the globe. Longyearbyen can be found on the mountainous island of Spitsbergen, so named because in 1596, dutch explorer Willem Barentsz discovered the island covered with “pointed mountains”. In fact, Longyearbyen with a population of over 2000 is the northernmost settlement with a population of over 1000. Longyearbyen exists as microcosm of a large city, with every public service or facility that any resident may require. Cultural activities such as concerts or plays are staged throughout the year to entertain residents. However to obtain resident status you would require a job or are studying at the local university. The harsh arctic climate deters many people but at the same time attracts a small group of like-minded settlers drawn towards the unique opportunity to spend time here. Under the present administration, the settlement does not accept any permanent residents and all must leave if they do not have a valid occupation or when their studies end. Hence the cemetery in Longyearbyen consists of mostly old graves, where miners were buried a long time ago.

In a similar manner, we arrived here to experience the extreme cold and the harsh arctic climate. During most of December and January, the nights do not end and the only way to tell the time is the clock on the wall, giving a new meaning to the word “day”. The term “Polar Night” is use to describe such a phenomenon. Therefore we found ourselves in Longyearbyen spending 4 Polar nights here. Unsurprisingly, we spent most of our days indoors as the mercury drops below -30°C and it was an agony to even take a 5 minute walk across the arctic tundra. However, the harsh weather also provided a serenity that very few places could match. Since humans spend most of their time indoor, the place is very quiet with almost no sounds of cars or machinery being operated in the winter. Longyearbyen offers visitors a brief respite against the hustle and bustle of modern city life.

As the outdoor activities offered in Longyearbyen were rather expensive, I was rather picky when it comes to deciding on what to do. We heard reports of snowmobile trips and other activities being cancelled due to the unforgiving wind. In the end, I decided to go for an ice caving trip which costs 690NOK. I was picked up by the excursion company in a van and all the tour participants were brought as far as the road could take us. The guide then gave us overalls, helmets and snow shoes. The snow shoes enabled us to walk easily on snow as they spread our weight over a larger area and prevent us from sinking into the snow. I would suggest wearing the overalls over your thickest down jackets as the overalls offered only protection against the wind but not the cold. The hood of your jacket should also be able to accommodate a helmet and make sure everything is secured before moving off. Make sure both your helmet and your hood is securely fastened before putting on your mitts because it is generally not a good idea to take them off when you are outdoors in Svalbard during winter. I would also recommend wearing something such as a balaclava to cover your face. The extremely cold wind can damage your skin if left exposed for too long.

Even though the trek through the snow to the ice cave was less than 2km, it was one of the most memorable 30 minutes I had been through in my life. In less than a minute after setting out, mucus was literally streaming down from my nose. To make matters worse, visibility was reduced greatly due to the wind. I figured at best I could only make out what was 20 metres ahead. I could only imagine what would happen if our group was to chance upon a polar bear in such weather. “Bear food” immediately flashed across my mind. In what seems like the longest 30 min ever, we finally reached the opening of the ice cave.

The ice cave was originally a flowing stream during the summer which had frozen when winter approached. The opening was so small that we had to crawl and slide in on our bellies. Inside the cave offered us a pretty good shelter and the guide soon provided us with some hot drinks and biscuits. He also talked a bit about Svalbard in general and also on the formation of such ice caves across Spitsbergen. The ice cave was relatively small and only extended about 20 to 30 metres more. We could not proceed without any ice climbing tools. After spending about half an hour in the cave, we made our way back to the van. We took a toilet break in one of the nearby hostels before heading back to our respective hotels. My verdict? I would definitely recommend this activity for any visitor looking to experience the harsh arctic climate during winter.

Another activity which I would recommend is the Longyearbyen tour provided by the Svalbard Maxi Taxi AS. Each person costs 250 NOK and the guide brought us around Longyearbyen for about 2 hours. Places covered include the Global Seed Vault, the local church and the satellite dishes located on one of the hills overlooking Longyearbyen. You can not enter most of the places but driving around gives you a feel of the town. If the weather prevents you from walking outdoors for extended periods, going for this tour is a good way to explore the town.


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Svalbard airport

We finally reached Svalbard! Not feeling the cold yet :)

SAS plane at Svalbard

SAS is the only licensed commercial airline to fly into Svalbard. Looking at the icy roads!

Inside Svalbard airport

Waiting for our lugguage. You take the airport bus(50 NOK) which will stop at all the hotels.

Longyearbyen town center

A statue dedicated to a miner in Longyearbyen’s main strip.

Inside an ice cave, Svalbard

The guide preparing refreshments after entering the ice cave.

End of ice cave in Svalbard

To go any further, we would have to do some climbing.

Icy formations in the ice cave Svalbard

Such ice formations can be found on the ceiling of the ice cave.

Departure hall of Svalbard airport

We say goodbye to Svalbard while waiting in the departure hall of the airport!

See more photos we took in Svalbard at Globe Nomads Facebook photo album.

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